Links – 08.01.07

Blog Resources
Wood Talk Online
Fine Woodworking Blog
Popular Woodworking Blog
Woodworking Magazine Blog
Marley Turned.com
7 Steps to a Perfect Workpiece: Squaring Up Lumber – via Woodworking Online
Wood Workers Resource Blog
A Mortise and Tenon Primer

Engraving Materials Suppliers
Laser Sketch – Laser engraving supplier
Laser Bits – Laser engraving supplier
JDS Industries – Gifts and Engravables
Marble Max – Engravable marble supplier

Laser Engraver Dealers
Epilog Laser
Engraving Concepts
TS-Aligner – Precision aligning instruments

Miscellaneous
Brands of the World

Engraving Clinics Hosted by Brewer Sales

I attended three engraving clinics hosted by Brewer Sales on Sunday July 31, 2007 at the Moody Gardens Hotel & Resort in Galveston, TX.

8:00 – 10:00am Xenetech Users’ Clinic
Presented by Jimmy Dubose (Xenetech, Baton Rouge)
The Xenetech Users’ Clinic gave me a good idea of what the Xenetech interface looks like and it’s special features for laying out text and artwork. I don’t own a Xenetech engraving machine but it was interesting to see the Xenetech software in action.

10:30am – 12:30pm Corel X3 Projects
Presented by Roy Brewer CRM (Engraving Concepts)
I picked up some good tips at the Corel X3 Projects clinic. Roy Brewer gave the presentation and I always feel that Roy is honest and genuine about the information he presents. Some of the tips I gleaned from his presentation are:

  • Tips on how to import different file types into Corel Draw and what problemsmight occur. Like how to reduce the number of nodes when importing an AutoCAD file.
  • Roy showed us how to work with bitmaps in Corel Draw – like how to remove that darn white box.
  • He also showed us how to use the Smart Fill in combination with the Create Boundary tool to quickly create outlines for cutting out complex objects.
  • Many other useful Corel Draw features were presented.

1:00 – 4:00pm Building a Laser Engraving Business – 101 Things to do with a Laser
Presented by Mike Dean (aka “Mr. Epilog”) & Roy Brewer
The last presentation on building a laser engraving business gave me ideas on different ways to make a profit with a laser or rotary engraver. During the discussion, creating and acquiring logos came up and someone mentioned brandsoftheworld.com. This is a great website it you need a vectored logo.

Randy Allen is the salesman who sold me my laser and did a very good job of making everyone feel welcome and kept things on schedule.

2007 Texas Trophy and Awards Show

 

The 2007 Texas Trophy and Awards Show took place July 27-28 at the Moody Gardens Convension Center in Galveston, Texas. There were about 50 booths advertising items ranging from laser engravers to trophys and plaques to embroidery items.

We visited about half of the booths on Friday. We visited the Engraving Concepts booth and saw an RMI laser system that delivers precision, non-impact marks on plastic, metal and other materials. They even engraved our names on our cell phones.

         

We attended the party on Friday evening right outside the exhibit hall with music and free food and then went to the hotel bar area where we listened to some good music and met another couple that had been attending the show. They were very nice people who have a business called Wall’s in Pleasanton,TX.

We picked up where we left off on Friday and went through the rest of the booths. We visited the JDS booth as we have done quite a bit of business with them in the past.

The rest of the photos we took of the event can be found HERE.

Like the past shows, this one offered a great opportunity to meet the venders and gather information on new and existing products.

Drawbore Mortise and Tenon

Mortise and Tenon:
The mortise and tenon joint is one of the strongest joints a woodworker can use. It also resists movement in any direction. I am in the process of building a new workbench and want it to be the most solid, sturdy, functional bench I can make (Currently the wood for my bench is sitting on stickers acclimating). So when it came to which joint I should use, the mortise and tenon joint won hands down. For the front rails I will use drawbored through tenons. The end assemblies will be drawbored but the tenons will not be through; I want the front posts smooth and flush with the bench top. After reading many magazines articles, online articles and forums these are the general guidelines I will use:

  • Wide: 1/3 the width of the thinnest part of the joint.
  • Deep: Over 1/2 of the mortised piece. A through tenon is the strongest.
  • Tall: The tenon should be 1/2 the height of the board leaving both shoulders at 1/4 the height.

 

Drawbore:
1. Drill a hole through the mortise close to the edge where the tenon will be inserted.

2. Drill a hole in the tenon just offset of the hole that was drilled through the mortise – toward the shoulder of the tenon about 1/32.

One way to achieve this is to use a forstner bit to drill the hole in the mortise. Then insert the tenon, insert the forstner bit in the hole and tap it with a hammer. This should leave a mark on the tenon. Then measure up 1/32 from the mark toward the shoulder of the tenon and drill a hole through the tenon using the forstner bit.

 

3. Insert the tenon into the mortise.

 

4. Pound the peg (dowel) into the hole which will draw the tenon deeper into the mortise.

 

– 

Tips:

One source recommends applying glue to just the peg. I plan on applying glue to both the joint and the peg.

From what I have read it is best to limit the number and size of the pegs so you don’t weaken the joint. I could not find any hard and fast rules on this but I would think the combined size of the pegs should be around 1/3 of the width of the tenon. I will give an update with the size I use when I complete my bench.

Put a small bevel or chamfer on the end of the peg by rolling the end over sandpaper at a 45° angle.

One tip from David Charlesworth is to drill completely through mortise. This helps prevent the surface grain from splitting out on the far side and removes the need to put saw kerfs in the peg. Once the long peg is driven home a short dummy peg is inserted in the far end to cover the hole.

– 

References:
The Pegged Joint, Exposed – from Fine WoodWorking.com – via Matthew Teague
Drawbore Joinery — via WoodworkingTips.com

Dowel plates used to make hardwood pegs — by David Charlesworth
-See “My bench frame” section.

Woodworking Magazine Weblog – via Christopher Schwarz
-See “Wedged Tenon v. Drawboring”

Drawboring a Mortise & Tenon Joint – via Loren Hutchinson
A Treatise on The Haunched and Drawbored Mortise & Tenon Joint — by Bob Smalser

Bench Planes

I don’t feel you need to be an expert with a shop filled with planes to turn out quality work, but I do feel if you have a few “tuned” planes and plenty of practice you can improve the quality of your work. I don’t remove large quantities of wood with my planes; that work is assigned to my power jointer and power planner. I reserve hand planes for smoothing rough spots left by my power jointer or snip left by my power planer. Also, there are many times when you only want to remove a small amount of wood to make a part line up, flatten a dovetail joint, or put a quick chamfer on an edge. This is where hand planes shine.

The Bench Planes I own are from Lie-Nielsen which are based on the Stanley Bedrock-type planes and are used in the descriptions below.

My Bench Planes:
   – No. 4-1/2 Smoothing Plane
   – No. 8 Jointer Plane

My Block Planes (I will cover block planes later):
   – Low Angle Adjustable Mouth Block Plane 60-1/2
   – Rabbet Block Plane 60-1/2R

Basic Bench Plane Parts (From bottom to Top)

Sole – Bottom of the plane that contacts the surface of the wood being planed

Mouth – The opening in front of the iron (See Fig 1.).

Toe – The front part of the plane (See Fig 1.).

Heel – The back part of the plane (See Fig 1.).

Frog Adjusting Screw – Moves the frog forward or backwards (See Fig 1.).

Locking Nuts – Holds the frog in place (See Fig 1.).

Frog – Holds the blade assembly at a 45° angle to the sole (See Fig 2.).

Adjusting Nut – Moves the chip breaker and iron up or down the frog (See Fig 2.).

Lateral Adjusting Lever – Moves the iron side-to-side leveling it to the sole (See Fig2.).

Iron (Blade) – Is the blade of the plane and cuts the wood (See Fig 3.).

Chip Breaker – Sits between the lever cap and the iron applying pressure to the iron and curls the wood shavings after they are cut by the iron (See Fig 4.).

Lever Cap – Uppermost part of the blade assembly and provides the clamping pressure on the chip breaker and iron (See Fig 5.).

Five keys to a well tuned Hand Plane

1. Sole: The sole must be flat and smooth. The outer edge of the sole and the mouth should not have any burrs or sharp edges.

2. Iron (Blade): The iron must be sharp. To fully cover sharpening the iron it needs its own article, but the definition of a sharp edge is the intersection of two flat smooth surfaces.

3. Chip Breaker: The front edge of the chip breaker should be close to the front edge of the iron; this holds the iron down and prevents chattering. The front edge that contacts the iron must be flat. You should not be able to see any light between the front edge of the chip breaker and the iron when they are together. If you can see light, then wood shavings can get caught and choke the plane. Also, the round part of the chip breaker above the front edge should be smooth. If it is smooth, then the shavings will roll off naturally.

4. Mouth: Adjust the mouth opening by moving the frog forward or backward; the mouth opening should be just wider than the thickness of the shavings you are going to make. With a typical Bench Plane you have to remove the blade to access the screws that hold the frog in place. On the bedrock series, the locking screws are on the back side of the frog and you don’t have to remove the blade to loosen them.

5. Iron Adjustment: The blade should be adjusted for depth of cut and laterally to the sole. I like to use a small piece of wood to help in the lateral adjustment. Lay a white piece of paper on the table. Turn the plane over in your hands and sight down the sole from the toe to the heel. Then advance the blade until it just start to show through the sole. Use the lateral adjustment level to level the blade. Then to fine tune the adjustment, use a small piece of wood to take small shaving from each side of the blade to see which side is higher or if the iron is level. Make adjustments as needed. When the iron is level back it into the plane until it does not take any shavings. Then make continuous passes over a board slowly advancing the blade after each pass until it starts to cut. Now you are ready to make shavings.

Related Links and References

Lie-Nielsen Use & Care Instructions
Matt’s Basement Workshop has various podcasts on hand planes

Popular Woodworking June 2007 Issue #162
HANDPLANES for Beginners page 70

American Woodworker #129 July 2007
Troubleshoot Your Plane page 64

Lumber Preparation

Below are the steps in preparing lumber.

1. Start by purchasing the straightest, flattest, dry lumber you can from the lumber mill.

2. When you get your lumber home stack it with stickers between the boards off the ground and let it acclimate to your shop. The boards will lose or gain moisture; normally lose moisture. To tell if you lumber is acclimated test the moisture content against a board that has been in your shop for a long time with a moisture meter. If you don’t have a moisture meter, then wait a week or two.

3. Take a wire brush and then a regular bristle brush to each side of your lumber to remove any grit from the lumber mill. I would rather spend a little time cleaning lumber than changing and sharpening blades.

4. Rough cut your lumber to size. Cut the boards to length leaving them a little long. If you rough cut your boards to length before you work with the jointer and thickness planner the boards will be more manageable and most importantly you will have to remove less material to get the boards flat (See Fig1).

5. Flatten one face and then joint one edge square to that face on the jointer. Using a jointer properly deserves it’s own article but here are a few general tips:

    Tune up the jointer before you attempt to flatten a board.

- Make sure the knives are parallel and level to the out feed table.
- Make sure the in feed table is parallel to the out feed table.
- Make sure the fence is square to the in feed and out feed tables.

     If the board is cupped place the concave side down. If you place the concave side up the board will rock and it is difficult to make it flat. (see Fig 2).

6. Plane the opposite face parallel on the thickness planner leaving the boards a little thick.

7. Cut the board to width at the table saw leaving the boards a little wide.

8. Re-stack the boards with stickers since fresh wood is now exposed and wait a few days for the boards to loose moisture.

9. Finish milling your boards to finial dimensions using the steps above when you are ready to build your project.

 

Stickers: Stickers are thin strips of dry wood placed between boards that allow air to circulate around lumber so the wood dries evenly.

Dry lumber: For indoor projects you want Kiln-dried wood which has a moisture content of around 6-8 percent.

Posted in Wood. 1 Comment »

Resources for Tools

Resources for Wood